Overview of Lhotse Expedition
Mt. Lhotse standing at an incredible height of 8516m is the world’s fourth highest mountain peaks. Lhotse lies close proximity to Mt. Everest as it is just situated 3 km south from the ridge of south col. This peak literally translates as south summit in Sherpa tongue. This peak lies in the Lhotse massif composed of 3 peaks as Lhotse middle/east (8413m), Lhotse shar (8383m) and Lhotse main (8516m).
The south face of Lhotse is the most technical part of Lhotse summit while this is considered as largest mountain face in the world. It has the steepest face in the world. Even though this peak is summated by passing via the most dreadful region of world; Khumbu glacier, this peak is known as minor eight thousand because it lies just a 610 vertical height from the south col or Geneva spur.
The main Lhotse was attempted heavily but all attempts were failed until 1956. It was first climbed by Swiss national Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger via west face. The south face was attempted several times but all attempts were failed till 1984 which was first summated by Czech. In 1979 Lhotse shar was expedited by Austrian expediters Seff Meryl and Rolf Walter. The east peak was however unattempted and remained unclimbed till May of 2001, which was then summated by Russian expediters Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev and their team.
Lhotse expedition encounters many hurdles such as Khumbu icefall, high altitude, avalanches, deep crevasses, harsh weather condition and even ultimate exhaustion.
Lhotse is a lifetime dream of many people but the dream never really comes easy on hand. Lhotse expedition is arduous painful and requires regular stable effort. The journey is difficult as it really is a risk taking job. The logistics, communication, experience, staff plays an important role where ones determination, patience and perseverance is a necessary trait to be developed. Talking about the unique charm, one is willingly take risk so as to achieve something where no regular individual can achieve.
Route for the Lhotse Expedition
Lhotse expedition generally starts from the base camp of Everest (5380m). The expediters fly in to this region via Lukla. And then trek to the base camp via Namche bazaar. The acclimatization is a must as there occur altitude sickness for any new face so it generally takes 8 to 10 days to reach Everest base camp. The goods and materials are carried by yaks, dzo, or human porter needed.
After the arrival to the base camp, expediters acclimatize in this environment for 2 to 3 weeks. They well train their body at this altitude. On the very time, Sherpa or the guide set up ropes and ladder and necessary equipment in place to cross the Khumbu Icefall. Khumbu icefall is regarded as most dangerous and treacherous path so crossing this risky zone as soon as possible is main priority of every traveler or expediter. The entire icefall can fall unto you or you can fall into the crevasses so, it crossing the Khumbu glacier is done at the early morning between 4 to 5 not later than 6 as temperature rises ice defrost and avalanches are most likely to occur.
From there we head for camp 1 located at 6065 meter. Climbers now acclimatize at this location for 2 to 3 days. This is tentatively less chosen location for acclimatization
Expediters move forward to camp 2(6400m) from camp 1 by passing through western CWM. This route is risky as it contains huge deep crevasses. After passing this region, camp 2 is relatively safer and people spend a huge days for acclimatization to this altitude. From here beautiful face of Lhotse is seen.
From camp 2 to camp 3 (7100m), the journey is absolutely tough as you go through harsh climate and intense oxygen deprivation state. You will walk via Lhotse face in the hard ice surface with rope or string attached. This steep climb needs more acclimatization time and expediters spends much time at the camp 3 to acclimatize and to advance for further journey
Camp 4 also known as South Col or separating Geneva spur (7900m) which is reached by passing via yellow band. This region has the well flat surface with loose rock and surrounded by Everest toward north and Lhotse towards south. This is the flat ridge between two mountain peaks. The climbers cluster their camp from one another so as to make its safe and less casualties from wind and hurricane. This is the highest position to which Sherpa carry the oxygen tanks.
Summit of the Lhotse from the camp 4 takes generally 11-12 hours thus this steep climb is all expedited via ropes, ice axes, crampons and necessary equipment. Our Sherpa guide helps fixing all the necessary equipment to make your journey easier.
Best climate for Lhotse Expedition
The climate in Nepal can sometime become notorious. The best valued of time and season must be taken care while visiting the harsh and wildest nature of Nepal. The expedition are the highly risk taking adventure in which proper time frame for implementation must be taken care. There are mainly two season famous for operating expedition in Nepal.
Spring season
Spring is the best season for expedition in Nepal. This includes the month from late February to May month. The climate will be most vivid at this time with the lushly view of the massive mountain terrain. The wind is not harsh and the trail will be less difficult than other season where it is mostly covered with snows. This season has the highest record of expedition in Nepal. The region will be more crowded with people thus the cost efficient travel is most.
Autumn season
Autumn is another season for the best time to summit the peaks. This season include from the month of late September to early December. The nature is with lushly hills with the vivid sky. The weather will be with less heat haze which includes best spectacular views of the massive peak ranges around the world. this is the second most crowded season of the year. There will be fewer crowds as compared to the spring season.
Physical fitness required for Lhotse Expedition
This peak climbing needs strenuous level of physical fitness. This is a grade 5 level of peak climbing thus one must be supposed to be physically fit free from any disability. The climber is supposed to have a well knowledge to use the tools and equipments. The climbers must be in healthiest shape and must endure the harsh wilderness and nature so as to successfully complete this very peak climbing.
Food and Accommodation
Food and accommodation is all provided through the package. The stay in the Kathmandu will be of two days where you will stay at hotel based on your level of preference. From then after reaching the Khumbu region, you will stay at the tea houses and lodges till to base camp. From there you will stay on the tent and camp so we will prepare our own food by guide or Sherpa till the final level of ascend and descend till to the base camp. The days on the camp will normally be 40-45 days decided on the basis of your level of fitness and health.
Graceful adventure is a fully licensed and registered adventure travel company of Nepal in recognition by Government of Nepal. We have an elite group of dedicated personnel of administration staffs, trekking and expedition guides, porters, cook and special counselors in our company. We organize the trek and expedition packages to our valued guest all around the globe. Our main intention is providing safe and effective trail to witness Himalayan vista through absolute delicacy.
Our commitment and our work success has made the guest fall into the love of our charm. Our ultimate motto of travelling the best and safe trail has become famous and selected guest with the best knowledge are involved with us. We are committed in providing best facilities available so as to make your trip go successful. We offer various packages with best reasonable prices and help tailor made some customizable packages according to the clients need, expectation and duration of travel. Hope you will give us opportunity to satisfy you with our best possible services and facilities available.
